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Perched in Lake Titicaca, the 12 square kilometer island of Taquile is populated by a Quechua-speaking community that has tenaciously defended its customs over time, refusing to mix its blood with that of outsiders. As on the mainland, one of the most important traditions here is the annual carnival, a communal expression of the joy preceding the potato harvest.
On the first day of carnival, the peace and quiet of the island is interrupted by the piping of Andean flutes - quenas, tiny pinquillos, and larger machus - and by the sound of horns and drums. Each of the island’s six ayllus, or districts, is represented by a troupe of dancers. Varayoq, or village elders, lead these troupes.
The dancers sway a few steps ahead of the musicians as they move toward the village center, celebrating the abundance of their fields. The movements of 2,000 islanders mimic the chore of preparing the earth for the planting of the potato. The women’s beautiful dresses reflect the colors of the potato fields in full bloom.
At the beginning of each day of carnival the sponsor seeks out the members of his dance troupe to offer them potatoes, beer and homemade spirits called aguardiente. The main day of the festivities falls on the Christian holiday of Ash Wednesday, when the local authorities gather the dancers together in the main square to make offerings and give thanks to Pachamama for her bounty.
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